An extremely soft and huggable giant teddy bear with a... $219.99 $169.99. That the Pack Creek preserve exists at all is due to the unexpected convergence of its prime bear habitat; an intrepid adventurer named Stan Price; and unusual cooperation between multiple government agencies. Once we were all safely on the wind-swept shore, we were greeted by two Forest Service rangers in faded-green rubber rain jackets. Water vapor from my breath collected as I pressed my face closer to the window. Tags Admiralty Island. There are only two ways to get to Pack Creek: by boat or by float plane. Bears are descending from hibernation high on the mountainsides down to the beach and estuary to gorge on giant clams at low tide and to graze on nutritious grasses and sedges. Required fields are marked *, (function( timeout ) { He explored Admiralty Island, armed only with a stick, getting to know the island and his “neighbors.” Female bears especially became accustomed to him, and brought their cubs to the homestead as a way to avoid aggressive males. A large brown bear emerges from Pack Creek. She lives on a small farm in Stanwood, WA with her husband and many rescue animals and enjoys photographing wildlife and landscapes. Aside from a lone raven gliding overhead, its wing beats audible, the amphitheater was empty and quiet. In recent years, Outside Online has reported on groundbreaking research linking time in nature to improved mental and physical health, and we’ve kept you informed about the unprecedented threats to America’s public lands. One of the things which I really enjoy about the spring hunts on Admiralty Island is the diversity of wildlife we see each day. Stan and Edna also raised a couple of orphaned female cubs, who in turn brought their cubs to the homestead. As outdoorsman Brendan Leonard wrote, “Bears don’t care about your problems.” They just go about their bear business as we saw today at Pack Creek. One million people visit southeast Alaska every year. The Admiralty Island a.k.a. Reaching the viewing platform, we reflected on the quiet beauty of this place. Within the wilderness area, black bears, elk, longhorn sheep and bobcats all thrive. They added outbuildings and gardens to create a self-sustaining homestead. May through early June is also mating season; this is when we can see the larger boars in pursuit of females, but also when sows with new cubs are at their most wary. He chose a life that was no doubt hard, but it was a life of meaning and connection with the natural world. I feel sad for Granny, likely in her last summer, and think about all she has experienced in her life here. It’s his job to keep wild places like this safe for future generations of Americans. Subscribe to our What You Missed newsletter for the top headlines from the outdoor world, in your inbox six days a week. Please reload CAPTCHA. In 1980 Congress created the Kootznoowoo Wilderness, which covered nearly all of island. He turned and flashed a brief smile. FREE shipping within the continental United States. But it is impressive how all of these separate entities work together. display: none !important; Throughout the pandemic, we'll keep publishing news to help you navigate the state of travel today (like whether travel insurance covers the coronavirus), as well as stories about places for you to put on your bucket list once it's safe to start going more far-flung. 1,423 Views. Smiley takes a couple of steps towards them, and then seems to think better of it. After the giant bear was killed, according to urban legend, three hikers were found inside the giant bear’s belly. If wilderness, as its definition attests, is supposed to stand “in contrast with those areas where man and his works dominate the landscape,” then the Kootznoowoo Wilderness of Admiralty Island is serving its purpose well. Time outside is essential—and we can help you make the most of it.  =  They worked at numerous jobs, including mining, logging, and fish canning. But it was a human catastrophe, the Great Depression, that gave the bears a brief respite as timber contracts dried up. A frayed yellow cord tied to the wing flapped violently as we flew along through wind and rain. https://www.outsideonline.com/2105796/visiting-alaskas-fortress-bears Cubs stay with their mothers until they are about three years old. For reasons unknown, no black bears ever made it to the island. That means permits are required to visit during critical times, and there are limits on the number of visitors per day. It’s set at 6ft and you’ll be surprised at the view you get of the bear as it walks past. Edna Price said they never let their guard down around a bear. On all fours, it would have stood eye-to-eye with a grown man. The sight was fairly predictable, yet absolutely surreal. But these were small victories. But habituation can be dangerous, especially when food is involved. An 18-year-old man was killed by a grizzly bear while working at a silver mine in Alaska on Monday, state troopers said, marking the second fatal mauling in the largest U.S. state this year. Sadly, most are confined to crowded cruise ships and souvenir shops for the majority of their time in the last frontier. Hunting closures for 20 square miles around Pack Creek further protected the bears. These bears are big, really big, frequently tipping the scales at over 1,000 pounds. I worry for the cubs now that they are on their own, and I sympathize with Smiley, as all his hard work was for naught, this time. Word got around about the Prices’ unusual living situation and people flocked to Pack Creek to see for themselves. In 1934, the National Forest Service and Alaska Game Commission created the Pack Creek Bear Preserve, and in 1935 the Civilian Conservation Corps built an observation tower upstream from the mud flats. Here’s another surprising fact: there are so many of these brown beasts patrolling the shores of Admiralty that there are no black bears—another southeast Alaska icon—to be found. The sedge meadow is lush, bear-belly high in some places. The outgoing tide had removed a blanket of water and exposed a vast stretch of beach hundreds of yards wide. A prehistoric South American giant short-faced bear tipped the scales at up to 3,500 pounds (1,600 kilograms) and towered at least 11 feet (3.4 meters) standing up, according to … He has done everything a male bear strives to do in his life: survive, mate, grow to great size and strength, and even have fun. After some time, we hit the point where the plane that brought us needed to return to Juneau. The large hump between their shoulders leaves no doubt that these are grizzlies, or brown bears as they are known in this part of the world. We were in bear territory now. The cubs are new to this scene, and fall over themselves to get out of the way. We flew out to explore this wild marvel—here's how you can do the same. It’s hard not to get caught up in this bear soap opera. Sea and sky came together as we touched down on the water. Find more newsletters on our. Obviously good bear conflict prevention measures should be practiced. Twice rebuffed, he looks around, and sees Smiley and friend, making a beeline for them. Get directions, maps, and traffic for Angoon, AK. When the salmon, the bears' main food source, do not return for the first time one summer, the grizzlies must find something else to eat from grass to even Dungeness crabs. It was another bear taking advantage of the low tide, browsing through the daily buffet of clams. We arrive by skiff. Travel His respect and admiration for them was contagious, and people came away with a new perspective. This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google, Thanks for signing up! "Any of you got waders?" I was trailing behind Dan when we reached the mouth of the creek. Angoon is located on the western side of Admiralty Island, a place known as “kootznoowoo,” or the “Fortress of Brown Bears”. The bears follow the grasses, insects, berries, bulbs, roots, shellfish, and of course salmon, in an elegant dance with the seasons. Swinging open the doors, the waist deep water lapped against the floats of the plane. Because of him, we get a glimpse into a world so different from the human-centric one most of us inhabit. You can't stay overnight in the sanctuary, but you can camp, permit free, on the island itself, and there's even a cabin you can rent. We hope you’ll support us. Rearing up on their hind legs, some specimens would have topped twelve feet tall. There are four other bears in the meadow as well. President Theodore Roosevelt attempted to set aside Admiralty, Baranof and Chichagof islands as a brown bear preserve. Or maybe paralyzed. Help fund our award-winning journalism with a contribution today. The native Tlingit name for Admiralty Island is Kootznoowoo, Fortress of the Bear, leaving no doubt as to who was, and still is, the dominant species. As the female fills the frame, I’m surprised that I’m not scared. In 1952, after an unpleasant encounter with the IRS, the Prices towed their floating house, called a wannigan, to Pack Creek. The temperate rainforests of Admiralty Island's Kootznoowoo Wilderness are unique among the 5,700,000 acres of federally protected Wilderness in Southeast Alaska. }, Mature male Kodiak bears average 1,000 to 1,200 pounds but can weigh up to 1,500 pounds when conditions are right. In 1978, President Jimmy Carter declared Admiralty Island a National Monument using the Antiquities Act. Though the largest bear to ever exist, that is verifiable, is Arctodus simus, also known as the Giant Short-Faced Bear. I worry that we are going to witness a fight. When the tide turned for the bears, it was almost as if to make up for lost time. Compare that to the total human population of about 650.  +  I’ve been to a lot of places in the world that make a person feel small. Muskeg and Forest, Kootznoowoo Wilderness, Tongass National Forest, Alaska, U.S.A. Old-Growth Forest, Alpine Lakes Wilderness, Washington, U.S.A. Amy Gulick is a Fellow with the International League of Conservation Photographers. Admiralty Island is my favorite place in the spring. Pack Creek, near Juneau, is in the heart of Admiralty Island – also known as the Fortress of the Bears (Kootznoowoo in the local Tlingit language). 7 These ancient forests are home to the highest concentrations of brown bears in the world, as well as thousands of bald eagles, Sitka Black-tailed Deer, boreal toads, and all five species of Alaskan salmon. I am not kidding, it was that fast. Shannon Finch is a writer and aspiring photographer. The salmon need to fight up stream into the quiet rocky stream beds shaded by mature trees to spawn; the bears just need to be fed. As we motor towards the island, we see a female bear with two cubs trailing behind. I see him in my mind’s eye, striding through the sedge meadow with his stick. The distant bear turned to look in our direction and raised itself onto its hind feet. A large, lighter colored male follows her. In the 1930’s bear viewing became a popular pastime for visitors from Juneau. A large brown bear emerges from Pack Creek. That’s about one bear per square mile if you’re doing the math. What is known is that the mitochondrial DNA from bears from Admiralty, Baranof and Chichagof Islands is different from those of other grizzlies, with studies showing possible linkage to polar bears. In addition to brown bears, it is home to a large population of bald eagles, many other bird species, Sitka Black-tailed deer, marten, mink, otter, and all five species of Pacific salmon. We had landed on the shores of Admiralty. Raindrops crawled slowly across the cold glass as I peered through our float plane window at the forest below. Fortress of the Bears in Southeast Alaska harbors the largest concentration of Alaskan Brown bears on Earth. October 13, 2020 I’m . Even with hunting permitted on 95% of the island, their numbers hold steady. twelve But coming to a halt in front of a massive lump of partially digested sedge grass—the remnants of a passing bear—in the middle of a claustrophobic trail walled in by gigantic tree trunks, I was struck by just such a sensation. It can be a good thing: Jane Goodall would never have made her groundbreaking observations of the chimps at Gombe if they hadn’t accepted her presence. If you happen to find yourself in Juneau, hop on a float plane (it's a 30-minute ride) and get out there with a good guide. Kootznoowoo Kootznoowoo Wilderness Pack Creek Pack Creek Zoological Area Seymour Canal Stan Price Stan Price Wildlife Sanctuary, Your email address will not be published. I think they are the same ones we saw on the shoreline. Approximately 1,600 brown bears live on the forested island, and visitors have been viewing bears at Pack Creek reliably since the 1930s. Being originally from South Africa myself, I guess I shouldn’t have been that surprised. Next we will complete our “ABC’s “ with a traverse of Admiralty Island. Immediately we see Smiley and his intended. I was thrown for a moment when the words “Welcome to Admiralty!” in a strong Australian accent came out of one of the woman's mouth. .hide-if-no-js { We watched the bear graze, paying little notice to our group sitting just a short distance away. Please reload CAPTCHA. "Well, here we are," came the hissing welcome of our float plane pilot through the intercom system. She disappears into the woods. It starts out cloudy, but the sun gradually makes an appearance. Indian Heaven by Horseback: A Return to the Great Outdoors. Your email address will not be published. A great, giant bear who has survived and prospered for almost 30 years. The bears are now about 30 feet from us, but they ignore us as they lumber past the viewing area. If you wish to travel on your own, you should plan to apply for a permit online ahead of time. ); At 1600 square miles, Admiralty is the seventh largest island in the United States. The rocky beach soon gave way to a small, earthen bank and a natural amphitheater, walled by dark trees and focused on a 400-acre mudflat, a meandering stream at its heart blanketed by thick sedge grass along its banks: Pack Creek. A land of giants. The bear sanctuary is open from June 1 to September 10, but the best time to see bears season is during July and August. Making a financial contribution to Outside Online only takes a few minutes and will ensure we can continue supplying the trailblazing, informative journalism that readers like you depend on. While some rangers thought that Price was too friendly with the wildlife, without him Pack Creek would not be what it is today. Whether bears swam or crossed ice bridges to Admiralty is anyone’s guess. Giant Teddy offers personalized teddy bears, stuffed animals and a FREE personalized greeting cards with every teddy. May through early June is also mating season; this is when we can see the larger boars in pursuit of females, but also when sows with new cubs are at their most wary. I had made this journey to Admiralty with my longtime friend, Dan Kirkwood of the Alaska Wilderness League, an experienced bear guide who had generously offered to host me in his Juneau home and show me around. (Photo: USFS). setTimeout( So, for this particular outing into the wilderness, I find it best to compartmentalize the moment when I was hastily slung like a sack of potatoes over another man's broad shoulders and carried briskly ashore. When the female is ready to mate, she drives the cubs off, first to protect them from males, and second, because it’s time. The bear footage camera allows Greive and his team a chance to see the bears and get an idea of the height. This may account for the brown bear’s larger size compared to other grizzlies, though an ample food supply helps too. Twisting my neck, I removed the intercom headphones cupped around my ears and heard the noise of the propellers come to an end. One quick look at the passengers gave him his answer. Bears are descending from hibernation high on the mountainsides down to the beach and estuary to gorge on giant clams at low tide and to graze on nutritious grasses and sedges. Kootznoowoo, Alaska is called that because of the literal translation “Fortress of the Bears” and that’s exactly what it is. Choose Options. But Smiley backs off, and in an instant, the dark female hooks up with the interloper. In 1997 the U.S. Forest Service created the Pack Creek Zoological Area, 66,000 acres of habitat off limits to hunting. Kootznoowoo means “Bear Fort” or “Fortress of the Bears,” and its forests contain the highest concentration of brown bears in the world. Called “Kootznoowoo” or “Fortress of the Bears” by the native Tlingit tribe, the island has one of the highest concentrations of Ursus arctos on the planet, fed and nurtured by the annual drumbeat of pacific salmon drawn to its shaded streams. (Photo: USFS). But the foam on “Smiley’s” lips and his clacking teeth make the situation less amusing. We have beautiful panda bear, customized cards for special occassions. TruthorFiction.com was able to track down the original photos of the giant bear killed in Alaska, and the hunter who shot it. The native Tlingit name for Admiralty Island is Kootznoowoo, Fortress of the Bear, leaving no doubt as to who was, and still is, the dominant species. National Monument designation didn’t change existing land uses, but did limit new activity. Their rifles rest in the crooks of their arms, pointing slightly upwards. $39.99 $ 39. He is an individual with a unique personality, and a memory loaded with years of experiences, feelings of happiness and sadness and pain. Food can make animals aggressive, and both bears and people can be hurt or killed (It’s unbelievable that this practice continued until 1967, but that’s another story). We nodded back in the affirmative, and said our goodbyes and thanks to the rangers. A guide will source permits and can arrange transportation. Some 1,800 brown bears inhabit its twisted and folded terrain. The cubs stand up often on their hind legs, scanning. Check flight prices and hotel availability for your visit. 5% coupon applied at checkout Save 5% with coupon. She lives near the Alpine Lakes Wilderness in Washington’s Cascade Mountains. Kayaking is hugely popular in the area, and there's great lakes and portage trails throughout. She crosses the creek to get away from him, and then crosses again. The corners of his mouth curve upward in a sort of permanent smile. No human or bear has been injured at Pack Creek since it has been actively managed, and the agencies have a strict protocol to keep it that way. We drew our coats closer against the cold wind. Two cubs, a blonde female and a light brown male, graze on sedges. . It’s early June, and Sitka spruce and hemlock pop with bright green new growth. The temperate rainforests of Admiralty Island's Kootznoowoo Wilderness are unique among the 5,700,000 acres (2,300,000 ha) of federally protected Wilderness in Southeast Alaska. It seems that I indeed captured her in her last summer. }, In the Fortress of the Bear: Brown Bears and the Legacy of Stan Price. Pack Creek itself descends from an elevation of 4000 feet through grasslands, spruce and hemlock forest, and rich sedge meadows, until it reaches the tidal flats of Seymour Canal. Alaska is home to some of the largest brown bears on the planet, and southeast Alaska’s Inside Passage includes several remote islands that have more giant bears per square mile than anywhere else in the world. Stan was a renaissance man, able to build and fix anything. We waited, but the thought that we may have come too early in the year, beaten the salmon to the stream, seemed to push the possibility of seeing a bear further away. Thank you. asked our pilot, raising a bushy eyebrow. Subscribe to our newsletters to stay up-to-date on the latest outdoor news. Who needs waders? Said by locals to be the largest bear to ever roam the Earth, Grandfather and many of the other bears of Kootznoowoo have DNA shared with both Polar Bears and Brown Bears. Granny casually skirts the action, munching sedges as she goes. The trees felt like pillars of a Greek temple, as if they held the clouds aloft. Shop Costco.com for electronics, computers, furniture, outdoor living, appliances, jewelry and more. It is the largest subspecies of brown bear and one of the two largest members of the bear family, the other being the polar bear. Where brown bears originated—and when—is a mystery, though fossil evidence shows their presence on the island for thousands of years. Looking for something else? Admiralty provides everything a bear requires to flourish: alpine denning sites, abundant water,  and lots to eat. A crow pecks at the mud around him, getting quite close, but Smiley only has eyes for the dark female. Habituation is the reason we are able to observe the bears in such close proximity. Bears and humans have met at this point for sometime now, and each is gracious with the other. He’s in a shallow puddle, watching as the female grazes. The female seems to be the bolder of the two, often leading the way. 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